Sunday, October 24, 2010

The Heat is On in Hanoi

From the austere hush of a haughty French restaurant to the raucous din of a frenzied bike-infested Asian street. From the dainty crust of a dusky rose macaroon to the piquant, spicy tang of a beef pho. From the bold flash of the distinctive lacquerware to the demure pastels of a perfectly rendered counterfeit Monet.

That's Vietnam for you.

Is it any wonder the besotted Americans found it impossible to leave? Hell, even the French had to be forced at gun-point to vacate. But a short vacation spell for me could only mean somewhere close by. Since French Indochine remained a beautiful mystery for me, I figured it was time to discover more in Hanoi.

Learning that the remarkably accomodating Vietnamese actually allow shabby foreigners to waltz in without a visa ( or even a measly embarkation card! ) certainly brightened my day.

Docs
Offering prayers

Sadly however that's as far as their hospitality extends. Though service remained near impeccable at the hotels, that couldn't be said of the commonfolk. Little of the gentle grace of the neighbouring Thais or the simple warmth of our countrymen. Brusque sullenness from the locals, even those involved in the tourism trade.

With their communist doors opened wide not too long ago, obviously the local Hanoians haven't exactly gotten used to the wild unpredictability of the capitalist world as yet. Bewildered they are, and still a bit crabby at the unwelcome intrusion. Not even the demure ao dais of their maidens can hide that.

No denying the intricacy of their handiwork though. Remarkable embroidery, beautiful lacquerware, detailed woodcarvings etc... the list goes on. Look no further for oil painting reproductions on the cheap! Plenty of items to buy. Though the decided lack of enthusiasm on the part of the dour, uncooperative shopkeepers certainly lessened the fun of bargaining.

Spent half of what I would have otherwise.

Fortunately I have perfectly good Vietnamese coffee ( and croissants ) to sustain me.

5 comments:

kenneth mullis said...

Hope you find all the good things you want for your collections. Have you got your partner with you on this expedition? or are you travelling solo? (Don't think a third alternative would fit in with your Ethics! Have a good break...all doctors I know need a holiday regularly!

savante said...

Managed to fit in a few souvenirs on the go, kenneth :) Didn't bring back a cute Vietnamese boy though!

Kenneth Mullis said...

I suspect if you did it would be rather expensive in the long run!

savante said...

Would be worth it if they cooked and cleaned :)

Emptiness said...

Well, I am a bit sad as Hanoi was not as good as you had expected. I'm from Saigon, where people are so much more friendly, but we do not have a lot of things there for you to see...
My suggestion is: try to go to the centre of Vietnam, if you have time for another trip to my country. Hoi An should be the best place for you...
Reading your blog quite often but this is the first time I leave a comment. Take care ;)